The capital of the province of Noord-Holland, Haarlem lies between Amsterdam and the North Sea. Just seven kilometers from the coast on the little River Spaarne (the source of the city’s nickname of “Spaarnestad”), this typical Dutch town lies on the northern boundary of the Bollenstreek, a famous bulb-growing region that produces tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, and daffodils.
Haarlem has a long and rich history. From the 11th to 13th centuries, it was the seat of the Counts of Holland and received its municipal charter in 1245, making it the second oldest city in the Dutch heartland. In the 17th century, the city was the scene of great artistic activity and the residence of many painters, including Frans Hals, Jacob van Ruisdael, Philips Wouwerman, and Adriaen van Ostade.
This rich cultural heritage lives on to this day, and the Frans Hals Museum, one of the top places to visit in Haarlem, draws large numbers of visitors. To learn more about this and other top-rated tourist attractions, be sure to read through our list of the top things to do in Haarlem.
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1. Grote Kerk: St.-Bavokerk
Grote Kerk: St.-Bavokerk
Located in the heart of the Grote Markt, Haarlem’s main city square, Grote Kerk (St.-Bavokerk) is the city’s most striking building. This Late Gothic cruciform basilica, 140 meters in length and featuring a slender 40-meter tower, was started in the 14th century with the building of the choir, with the transepts added in the mid-15th century.
Interior highlights are its rich furnishings dating from before the Reformation, including the choir and lectern from 1499, the beautifully carved choir-stalls from 1512, and the brass choir screen from 1509. In front of the former chapel of the Seamen’s Guild hang three models of Dutch warships, while the piers under the tower and in the choir are covered with 15th- and 16th-century paintings depicting symbols of the Apostles, the guilds, and church doctrine.
The real star, however, is the church’s famous Müller Organ. Considered one of the greatest such instruments in the world for its tone and decoration, this magnificent instrument was built by Christian Müller in 1738 and features three manuals, 68 stops, and 5,000 pipes, the largest of which is 10 meters long with a diameter of 40 centimeters. Among those who have played the organ are Handel and Mozart. For an unforgettable experience, try to coincide your visit with one of the attraction’s regular organ recitals.
Address: Grote Markt 22, 2011 RD Haarlem
Haarlem’s St Bavokerk Map (Historical)
2. Frans Hals Museum
Frans Hals Museum | StanTheCaddy / photo modified
Established in 1913 in one of Haarlem’s most important historic structures, the 17th-century Old Men’s Almshouses (Oude Mannenhuis), the Frans Hals Museum is one of the leading art galleries in the Netherlands. Spread across two locations — the “Hof” and the “Hal” — the museum focuses on the work of the Haarlem Academy, a group of artists established by Frans Hals in the 1600s.
Today, this impressive museum is home to the world’s largest collection of Hals’ works, including five of his large civic guard pieces. These large canvases display his genius for capturing a moment and bringing it to life in each of the faces.
Other highlights include works related to the marksmen’s guilds, companies of volunteers from the city’s more prosperous citizens who would join together to form a civic militia. The collection also includes 17th-century portraits and landscapes, along with a collection of modern and contemporary art, including paintings, sculptures, textiles, ceramics, and graphic art by artists from Haarlem and the surrounding area. A sizeable collection of contemporary art and photography can also be viewed.
Address: Groot Heiligland 62, 2011 ES Haarlem
3. The Grote Markt and the Old City
Vleeshal
In addition to being the location of many of the city’s main tourist attractions — including the Town Hall and Grote Kerk — Haarlem’s Grote Markt is home to a number of other splendid sights, and a visit here is one of the most popular things to do. Highlights include the Brinkmann-Passage with its shops and restaurants, and the old Guard House (Hoofdwacht), one of the oldest buildings in Haarlem and notable for its gable from 1650.
But the real gem here is the Vleeshal, or Meat Hall. Built in 1603 to house both the municipal slaughterhouse and the butchers’ guild, it ranks as the finest work of the Northern Renaissance movement and has been perfectly preserved as an annex of the Frans Hals Museum.
Also of note is the Vishal, or Fish Hall (also occupied by the Frans Hals Museum), notable for its red and white façade topped by beautiful ornamental gables. You can learn more about this charming neighborhood and its history on a two-hour Private Walking Tour with a local guide.
4. The Old City Hall
The Old City Hall
Standing opposite the Grote Kerk is the City Hall (Stadhuis), the oldest parts of which date back to 1250. More recent features, such as the external staircase, the north wing, and the Neoclassical façade, were added in the 1600s. The tower, Haarlem’s greatest landmark and emblem, was rebuilt based on original plans in 1913 (the original bell still rings at the beginning of council meetings).
The interior is also of interest and includes numerous fine paintings, relics, and mementos, along with fine woodcarvings (guided tours are available).
Address: Grote Markt 2, 2011 RD Haarlem
5. Teylers Museum
Teylers Museum
The oldest museum in the Netherlands, Teylers Museum was founded in 1778 after its namesake, a wealthy cloth and silk dealer, bequeathed his fortune to build an establishment to illustrate the development of art and science. One of only four such museums in Europe — its contemporaries are in Oxford, London, and Paris — the museum includes an extensive art collection, with numerous drawings and pictures by early Dutch masters.
Other important works include figure studies for the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo; drawings by Raphael; and an outstanding collection of scientific instruments, minerals, and fossils. Of particular interest is the exquisite Oval Room, designed as a place for research and study and where scientific experiments were once conducted. English language guided tours are available.
Also worth visiting is the adjoining Weigh House (Waag), erected in 1598 and in use until 1915.
Address: Spaarne 16, 2011 CH Haarlem
6. Amsterdamse Poort
Amsterdamse Poort
One of the most picturesque corners of Haarlem lies around the Bakenessergracht, home to some of the city’s oldest and most spectacular buildings. Especially pretty is Hofje van Bakenes, a lovely little courtyard dating from 1395 that’s famous for its cryptic rhyme (look for the plaque above the entrance).
At the end of the Bakenessergracht is the River Binnen Spaarne, crossed here via an attractive old drawbridge, and from which you get a great view of the Amsterdamse Poort, Haarlem’s only surviving city gate. Built in the early 1400s and a national monument, it’s flanked by two octagonal towers and two round towers, as well as remnants of the old city walls.
Address: Amsterdamsevaart, Haarlem
7. Proveniershuis
Proveniershuis
Located on Grote Houtstraat, Haarlem’s main shopping street, Proveniershuis is a collection of fine old buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries that really should be included on your list of places to visit. Historically, this attractive area has housed a cross-section of city folk, from nuns and priests, to merchants and retired guildsmen.
Today, it’s a splendid area to stroll around as you soak up the atmosphere and explore the side streets that peel off into the city’s many quiet nooks and crannies, including to the numerous old almshouses where the poorer citizens once lived.
Address: Grote Houtstraat, Haarlem
8. The Cathedral of St. Bavo
The Cathedral of St. Bavo
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Bavo is a relatively recent three-aisle cruciform basilica built between 1895 and 1906. Some 100 meters long, 42 meters wide, and 60 meters high, it’s a good example of the transition in church architecture from traditional to more modern designs. Highlights include the Cathedral Treasury with its valuable silver liturgical utensils and a reliquary with the remains of St. Bavo.
Other notable features are the fine stained glass, as well as sculptures and paintings by well-known Dutch artists. Also of note is the Willibrord Organ, built in 1923 with four manuals and 75 stops (check the schedule for periodic organ recitals).
Address: Leidsevaart 146, 2014 HE Haarlem
9. Nieuwe Kerk and William of Orange
Nieuwe Kerk and William of Orange | Remon Rijper / photo modified
Haarlem’s New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) was built between 1645 and 1649, with a graceful Renaissance tower and clock dating from 1795. Inside the church, be sure to notice the magnificent Baroque tomb of William of Orange, made by Hendrick and Pieter de Keyser in 1614. Also of importance in the adjoining churchyard are the graves of painters Jacob van Ruisdael and Philips Wouwerman.
Address: Nieuwe Kerksplein 36, 2011 ZT Haarlem
10. Ten Boom Museum
Although one of the city’s smallest attractions, the Ten Boom Museum is well worth a stop when visiting Haarlem. Dedicated to the life of author Corrie Ten Boom, it’s reminiscent of the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam and portrays a typical small home that played an important role in hiding persecuted Jews during WWII.
The focus of the museum — located in the watch shop her family owned — is Ten Boom’s bestselling book, The Hiding Place, which vividly portrays the dangers involved in providing a safe haven for refugees. Tragically, the family were found out, and most were killed before the end of the war. English language guided tours are available.
Address: Centrum, 2002 CE Haarlem
11. De Adriaan Windmill
De Adriaan Windmill
Standing on the banks of the river Spaarne, the De Adriaan Wiindmill (Molen de Adriaan) is a faithful replica of the original 1778 mill built on the foundations of an ancient defensive tower. The original, which ground tufa to a powder used in cement making and was later used to grind tobacco and then corn, burned in 1932.
On a 45-minute tour, you can learn more about the mill’s — and Haarlem’s — history and see how a windmill operates. From the viewing platform, you can enjoy good views of the river and city.
Address: Papentorenvest 1, Haarlem
By: www.planetware.com